Happy Holidays…
How much thought have you put into finding the perfect “home from home” for your guinea while you are away?
1. Where do I find a list of reputable boarding establishments for guinea pigs?
The best recommendations can often come from your local rescue or Vet. Also check with other friends that have guineas to see if they have any recommendations.
This should be covered in the boarding document. Does your Pig Sitter know to show the body of the dead guinea to their friends so that they can acknowledge the death in their own way? What would you like done with the body? Options include cremation which can be arranged via the Vet, burial in the garden (if your guineas are being looked after at home), or in a Pig Pot. What is a Pig Pot? It is a lovely big pot that is as individual and unique as your guinea. Choose a nice pot, bury your guinea and plant a special flower, bush, or something else to remind you of your guinea.
Small is beautiful for individual attention – if guineas get sick and need syringe feeding it can be very time consuming.
Absolutely – only Vets can make a diagnosis and prescribe drugs for your guinea.
For further questions to ask your Pig Sitter visit
Guinea Pig Welfare.Wishing you and your guineas a happy and safe summer.
June 9, 2010
Posted in: Planet Guinea 
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In The Heat of The Moment…
- Often indoors is cooler than out, indoors can be a shed or a house- as long as its cool. An air conditioning unit is a good investment and better than a fan which simply moves the hot air around.
- Plastic drinks bottles filled with water and frozen and wrapped in a towel can make good coolers for guinea to lie against if he wishes. A cool atmosphere is best though.
- Plenty of water should be available, where there are a lot of guineas kept in a group provide each guinea with a bottle- no one should need to wait for a drink in the hot weather. Ensure water bottles are working.
- Food should be fed at the usual temperature- room temperature, frozen foods (even when melting) are dangerous, they can upset the digestive system and cause fatal diarrohea. Ice will do little to hydrate a guinea pig, it is water they need.
- Nothing need be applied to the skin, if it is that hot then guinea will be safer inside.
- Wooden houses or cardboard boxes are better houses than plastic igloos that will be like an oven. If towels etc are draped over all the run there is no need for houses.
- Ceramic tiles that have been in the freezer overnight provide some relief from the heat.
- Longhaired guineas should have their coats thinned and trimmed, most will grow again.
- A limp body, guinea may be on his side and unwilling to move.
- Slobbers: a wet chin.
- Laboured breathing
- A rapid pulse
- May feel hot too touch, particularly the ears.
On discovery of a guinea with heatstroke:
- Ask someone to call a vet and make an appointment.
- Remove guinea from the immediate environment and bring him in somewhere cooler.
- Fill a bowl with tepid not cold water. Cold water can send guinea into shock.
- Dab some water on the ears and just behind them (where there is no hair).
- Put guineas feet in the bowl of tepid water- let him stand in it if its shallow enough and he is able to stand.
- Soak a towel/flanel in the tepid water and wrap guinea in it, it is of great importance that you do not use cold water.
This action should be sufficient until you can get to the vet where guinea will need rehydrating. Do not attempt to give fluids yourself- this can be dangerous if breathing is not normal- do offer guinea water though either in a dish or bottle.
©www.planetguinea.co.uk
May 22, 2010
Posted in: Seasonal care No Comments
Planet Gorgeous: Rescue and Fostering- one and the same?
1. What did you expect to get from fostering?
To try and help Karen when she was overflowing with guineas, and doing whatever was required to get the guineas ready for adoption. I liked Karen’s attitude towards her guineas and the way that she cared for them. It is really important to be able to work with someone that you trust, and who trusts you and that you share the same values and expectations around guinea pig welfare and rehoming. Otherwise it would be very easy to fall out and that wouldn’t help the guinea pigs to find Forever Homes.
2. Was it like you expected?
I don’t remember having any real expectations about fostering, apart from wanting to help Karen when she was full to bursting after taking in 15 badly fungal guineas when I had a spare cage.
3. Do you view it as a step towards becoming a “full blown” rescue or is fostering completely different?
Running a rescue has never been on my list of priorities, but helping out in different ways was a useful way of getting more experience with all sorts of guinea pig challenges. Having a spare cage was a good way to start and to keep the numbers manageable. If you did have an ambition to start your own rescue, helping out at a local rescue would be a good way to dip your toe in the water. Running a rescue would be too time consuming for me, along with the worry about where the money was going to come from to pay for all the food / bedding / Vet bills. Fundraising is time consuming and given that you have a legal obligation to get Veterinary treatment for your guinea if it needs it, it can be a huge cost. The current cost of a consultation at our local Vets is around £27, add some drugs and you don’t get much change from £40. Castrations are around £50 each, and so it goes on. This is not a responsibility that I would want to take on. My real area of interest is guinea pig skincare, and by making the Gorgeous Guineas range of products I can help thousands of guineas all over the world, as well as being able to help my own local rescue on a very small scale.
4. How did you view your responsibilities towards the guineas, their care and eventual rehoming?
Any guineas that I foster are treated as if they are my own, apart from Veterinary care, which is paid for by the local RSPCA branch. This is always arranged via Karen as she needs to know why each guinea is going to the Vet in order to provide a Log Number, so the invoicing can be done correctly. Apart from that, I provide all their food, bedding, cuddles, bathing, general healthcare, transport the vets etc. Karen gets regular progress reports about any guineas that I look after, and it is ultimately her decision what happens to each guinea. Some go to their new homes directly from me; others go back to her to be introduced to new friends, depending on the circumstances. She is always willing to listen to feedback / suggestions to ensure that the guineas get the best chance of finding the right Forever Home. Having someone that you can bounce ideas off of and share experiences is a real necessity when doing rescue and rehoming.
5. Are foster homes always a vital part of rehoming guinea pigs?
I have had lots of requests from people wishing to foster. However, apart from Chrissie, only one has been able to provide what I needed in order to be of any real help. They were unable to continue though as despite me informing them that it might be a long term (as in 6 months to a year) commitment they had expected the guineas to be rehomed within weeks. I was also a little disappointed with the lack of communication. I have learnt a valuable lesson about choosing fosterers, it takes more than a spare hutch and some goodwill, they need to be totally on your level about guinea pig care and to have already demonstrated that they are good at keeping up contact- I have rescue enquiries to answer and Piggy PMs to organise, I cannot be chasing up forgetful fosterers.
I am never looking for a foster home to take in lots of guineas- I have enough problems rehoming the ones I have here; I do need someone on standby for those times of “emergency” when cages get “doubled booked”. Yes, they a vital part of RGPR to me, I work and if an Inspector has a guinea pig or two on the van (they don’t get to choose when Humans decide to hand them over!) I need to have somewhere available for them to go. The “van” know to call Chrissie when I am at work and that guinea pigs can safely be left there. They will have already been signed over to the RSPCA and on reaching Chrissie will be signed over into her care until I can take them. All these records then go towards the statistics collected by our branch.
6. What do you expect from your foster home?
I have to be in total agreement about guinea pig care and welfare with my fosterer; we must have the same ideals about what rescue is about, and general guinea pig care/husbandry itself. Working with someone who does not understand the importance of regular bathing or how essential immediate Vetcare is, for instance, would not work.
I expect my foster homes to provide everything necessary for the guinea pig’s care and welfare except for veterinary costs; those are funded by our local RSPCA branch (without whom RGPR would simply not exist). They must provide an Animal Welfare Act compliant home- minimum standards are good when it comes to cage sizes so that when they are rehomed (always to an Animal Welfare Act compliant home) they will not be going to anything smaller.
My fosterers must be able to observe their charges closely, I need to be able to match them to the appropriate home and my fosterer will be able to tell me which home will suit them. They must also be able to take directions from me, anyone who finds my views and decisions disagreeable should not foster for me, it would make for a bad relationship and that stress will rub off onto the guinea pigs- Chrissie is a very “stress free” person living a “stress free” life which makes for happy guinea pigs. Similarly I choose to live as stress free life as is possible (that’s not to say we live with our heads in the clouds all the time- we have “life problems” and challenges like anyone else!), I believe this attitude has done a great deal in cementing the Fosterer/Rescuer relationship that we have.
7. How does running a rescue differ from a Foster Home?
To me, fostering means having a spare cage and taking on a couple of guineas at a time, or a single boar that was waiting to be castrated. If Karen didn’t have space to take a boar in until he’d had his “little op”, waited for 2 weeks and could then go with sows, I would look after him during that time, take him in for his pre-op check, operation and post-op checks. I did this for the lovely Digger, who was delivered to me by the RSPCA when Karen was full. I had him for about 3 weeks and then delivered him back to Karen. He was introduced to Posy who had just given birth and he made an excellent job of his “dad duty”. Soon afterwards, Marvellous Marbles died and I asked Karen if Digger would like to come and be a Gorgeous Guinea. He did, and after meeting Roza and Little Miss Nosey he soon settled in, so I see that as one of the ”perks” of the job! Fostering also means looking after guineas without having the worry about who is going to pay for any Vet bills, and not having to make decisions about which guineas you can and can’t take in when you are full.
From a rescue point of view I see Chrissie as my safety net when I have a guinea pig without a roof over their head and needing to come in. Similarly Chrissie is there when I am at work and can take in guineas off the van for me which is a great relief for Inspectors, who can then move onto a different job without having to travel to the nearest centre that has a free space. An example of this was Mr. Softy whose sister came in after their Human contacted me saying she was worried about the fox getting the guineas- she couldn’t move the cage because it would fall apart- could I help? Unfortunately I could only take the sow in, but Chrissie stepped in and offered to take in Mr. Softy until I had room. This differs to rescue where I have a daily responsibility for the care and welfare of the guinea pigs; they are part of my everyday life, not just on occasion. I am also responsible for sourcing information for my prospective adopters, as well as being the primary organiser for our Piggy PMs- yes they are very well helped but someone needs to start the ball rolling, organise coffee meetings and be the one who is responsible for how the day goes. In addition to this I need to stay in contact with my local RSPCA Branch, I have, over the 9 years I have worked with them, built up a good working relationship and earned a lot of respect- respect cannot be demanded of anyone, vets etc will always expect you to earn it.
8. What guinea pigs in particular have benefitted from being in a foster home?
Daisy and Clover were 2 of the group of 15 badly fungal guineas that were taken in soon after I had met Karen and adopted the lovely Florence. I offered to take them as their skin was very badly crusty and they needed more 1-2-1 attention than Karen could give them at the time – she had her hands full with the other 13 guineas. It was also an opportunity to help them with some nice gentle shampoos and aromatherapy products, from which Gorgeous Guineas was eventually born. Regular baths and skincare treatment saw their skin gradually improving until it got to the stage where they could go for a whole month between baths without being scurfy. Read their story on the Pig Issue. When I delivered them back to Karen she was speechless (for once!) and couldn’t believe that these two now Gorgeous Guineas were the same two scabby guineas that I had taken some months earlier!
9. What qualities do you need, to be able to foster? Is it easy?
In order to be able to foster you need some level of detachment from the guineas you are looking after, a good level of knowledge about “all things guinea” (or willing to learn), patience and time to give to them so they are well socialised and used to being handled / bathed / manicured etc. The first two guineas I fostered were father and son, Magic and Marbles. Marbles was a very cute 8 week old fluff-ball who was small enough to fit in my hand, and is father Magic was probably about a year old. In a very short space of time I fell in love with them both and ended up adopting them. So, was that a fostering “failure”? Yes and no! Yes, because I got attached to them and if I carried on like that, I wouldn’t be able to foster many more before I had too many guineas of my own – in the long run, that wouldn’t help Karen very much. No, because they ended up with a nice home and after a discussion with Karen, we agreed that she would only give me sows in future as I have a very soft spot for boars! That worked perfectly as there wasn’t the same level of attachment to the sows (as nice as they all were). Giving my own guineas and foster guineas the same level of care wasn’t hard, why would I do anything different for guineas that weren’t “mine”? They were all treated exactly the same, but there was less emotional detachment to the foster guineas. After a year or so, I did take on a boar / sow pairing without falling in love with them, so that was good! Saying goodbye to guineas that you’ve looked after for a while and grown fond of is always hard, but given that I usually do the home checks, I know that they were going to be well cared for in their Forever Home. Handing them back to Karen when she had space to take them back wasn’t difficult because I know how she looks after her guineas. The best part is when the guineas come back to stay when their Humans go on holiday. It is always good to see how they have progressed and moved on with their little lives.
10. What is your view of a successful rescue?
My view is that a successful rescue will only look after one species – i.e. RGPR is guineas only. How can you possibly know everything about every species? In my opinion it is better to specialise and do your best to pass on your knowledge to the people who are adopting. For example, when I had my RSPCA home check before adopting Florence, it was done by the local cat fosterer. As nice as she was, she didn’t have a clue about guinea pigs and if I had any questions about anything guinea related, they would have been passed back to Karen. After that, I asked Karen if she would like me to do the guinea pig home checks for her, and the answer was “yes please”. As a home checker, being able to answer all the questions you are asked, and giving the same answer as the person running the rescue is really important for consistency. Providing a good information pack when guineas are adopted out is important too, as is staying in contact to ensure that anyone can shout for help if they run into problems. It is also important that the Human knows that they need to contact the rescue if for whatever reason they need to give up their guineas. Proper records also need to be kept for all guineas coming and going so that they are legally handed over / adopted out, and that you have paperwork to prove it.
Lenny, Silver Agouti Texel
May 3, 2010
Posted in: Planet Gorgeous, Planet Guinea, Rescue No Comments
(Re) Introducing To Feeding Grass/Runtime
“New grass” is grass that is, as the name suggests, newly grown. New grass is “rich” and needs to be introduced gradually to avoid digestive issues such as bloat or diarrhoea for example. These can be fatal if not treated promptly (treatment that often needs to be given before the vet is seen) and the effects can last for days with some guinea pigs meaning a regime of syringe feeding (the correct amounts to suit the condition) and vet visits.
Therefore care needs to be taken when introducing New Grass back into he diet- New Grass can be the grass that grows outside in Spring or grass that is grown at any time of the year, indoor or out; it is still “New”.
- Introduction begins in the cage/pen/hutch before the guinea pigs go outside. Feed a meal of tasty hay to ensure the digestive system is working well and to fill the guinea pigs up in order to discourage eating too much. This is in no way a fool proof method- the first times in the run/New Grass are very exciting, even for guinea pigs that have grass all year round.
- Half an hour with their hay to eat should be long enough but if they are still eating leave alone until they have finished (for the first few times at least).
- Decide how you will limit your guinea pigs’ intake of grass. This will need you to know your guinea pigs and their eating habits. If they are new then choose the method that only allows them a certain amount of time on the grass.
- Restrict the time they are outside on the grass and increase it every other day or be guided by your guinea pigs; i.e if 15 minutes on New Grass causes soft droppings only put them out for 10 next time.Grass varies in its richness.
- Restrict the space that is available to the guinea pigs (remembering to take into account how long the grass is/if it has been mowed). Again, always be guided by your guinea pigs but this method will probably not need restricted time if the area is small (maybe divide the run up into smaller sections).
- Put a large number of guinea pigs out together in a run- in theory they will be able to eat less than if there were only two, but this is the one where you need to know your guinea pigs’ eating habits. If some tend to not eat when they first go out while others tuck in some will be getting more than others. The other obvious factor here is to ensure the guinea pigs are compatible. They will be in a small space and might not have enough room to get away from each other should they want to.
- Guinea pigs need to be back inside before it starts to get damp. They will often tire after only a couple of hours outside.
- Guinea pigs must only go out on dry grass, they carry their bodies close to the ground making it easier for them to get pneumonia.
- Provide appropriate shelters; the first time guinea pigs go out on the grass they can be a little bewildered by the open space and the strange new “feel” under their feet. So that they can take their time to become accustomed to their new environment provide them with a floorless shelter, such as a fiddlestix, so they can be undercover but still explore this strange new world. Eventually they will learn that the grass is tasty and begin to venture outside. Plastic shelters with only one gap for an entrance will soon heat up, choose open ended shelters or an upturned cardboard box with some “doors” cut out will be fine.
- Put some shade over the run. The sun moves round and therefore the shade must be moved round too. Do not be tempted to put wet towels etc over the run, it creates a damp atmosphere which is not what you want for guinea pigs, if it is that hot they will be happier inside until it cools down later in the day.
- Put water/drinking bottles outside for them. Never give iced water to drink it is often the cause of diarrhoea. If it is so hot outside that they need something to cool them down (as opposed to providing shade) they should be put out later in the day when it has cooled down.
April 27, 2010
Posted in: Seasonal care No Comments
Guinea Pig Welfare Pigfesto 2010
Read through the Guinea Pig Welfare Pigfesto to find out what the essentials are for providing a guinea pig friendly home; by putting these into practise guinea pigs are “allowed to be guinea pigs”, which in turn impacts on health and wellbeing:
- A correctly balanced diet including fresh water. Diet should be made up of 70% or more hay plus a correctly balanced diet of fresh vegetables.
- A guinea pig friendly bedding. Guinea pigs are in close contact with the ground and what is on it; make sure it is “guinea pig friendly”.
- Companionship of a well matched guinea pig, anything else is not enough or not appropriate.
- Competent veterinary care. Find a good vet before you need one.
- At least 4 foot by 2 foot (or 120cm by 60cm) living space for two guinea pigs. Increase by 30cm or 1 foot per guinea pig; i.e. 3 guinea pigs: 5 foot by 2 foot (150cm by 60cm).
- Enough hay provided for foraging in and eating. Topped up as needed.
- To be allowed to express natural behaviour such as mutual grooming, foraging in hay…
- To achieve a near ideal environment by keeping in a shed or outhouse for most of the year (if not all). Guinea pigs have not evolved to cope with our climate.
If these can be met then further research is needed- use each point as a start.
The Pigfesto is essential for maximising good health and wellbeing.
This does not include any other needs a guinea pig might have that can be impacted on by other circumstances in their environment. For example, children, stressful situations and how different guineas might react- the Pigfesto is essential for maximising Good Health and Wellbeing and none of the points can be substituted; for example, a larger cage does not mean it is acceptable for a guinea pig to be without a guinea pig friend.
Guinea pigs need Commitment and Commitment has an Impact on Quality…
Further information can be found on: www.guineapigwelfare.org.uk
MCN: C3X1Y-4MNQ5-7C471
April 3, 2010
Posted in: Behaviour, Rescue No Comments
Spring!
“Spring” is a changeable and unpredictable season probably best defined by the weather than dates or definte times. For many Spring has sprung when the first full day of sunshine accompanied by birdsong happens, for others it is the day when their guinea pigs can safely go out on the grass.
The latter is the more conditional and unpredictable of the two. Conditions depend on:
1. The ground having warmed and dried up enough, particularly after a snowy season, snow is a great natural insulator- insulating in all that cold and moisture!
2. Guinea pigs must never be put out on frosty grass, for the same reason as chilled food shouldn’t be fed. If it was to be eaten it may cause diarrhoea or other digestive upsets, if not it is likely to get a chill or worse still pneumonia due to the sheer physique of its body- i.e. carried very close to the ground. Towel drying when they come in does not guarantee a chill will “go off” either; why risk it?
3. New grass is very rich (and this includes any grass grown indoors, Planet Guinea advise feeding all “young grass” sparingly/as a treat, and not only grass grown in the Spring), and can result in Diarrhoea, bloat or general digestive discomfort where care isn’t taken. Feed a meal of hay before they go out for the first few times to ensure a full belly and that the gut is moving. Limit guinea pigs’ time outside on “new grass” or put lots of guinea pigs in a small space for a longer time; with the latter lots of mouths should, in theory, mean less grass for everyone, but know your guinea pigs!
4. Often in early spring there are still some very cold winds blowing, many close to the ground, take this into account when deciding if your guinea pig should go out or not.
5. A popcorning and happy guinea pig might say that its acceptable to be here, or more than that, it’s great. Or is the guinea pig happy to have some exercise and a change of scenery, could this be recreated elsewhere or even planned into the guinea pigs’ current and permanent housing? Isn’t it far better to have a large pen all the time and to be able to choose when you exercise?
6. Damp grass, even when the weather warms up towards the end of Spring, should be avoided for much the same reasons as frosty grass. Whilst their ancestors would’ve chosen what to do and when the climate in which they live is entirely different to ours and is the one to which they are built for, it is our responsibility to recreate the natural environment as much as possible and also to protect them from certain aspects of ours.
Guinea pigs that have been brought indoors because of the cold winter should still be there in early Spring unless moving to a heated shed, whilst the days brighten up considerably the temperature, in most places, still drops a lot overnight.
Whilst it may be too cold to put guinea pigs outside open windows in the shed during the day to allow circulation and ventilation to happen.
March 5, 2010
Posted in: Planet Guinea No Comments
Thistle Cavies’ February Newsletter
Thank you to Thistle Cavies for letting us share their February news letter. It goes to show that, like RGPR, Thistle would rather guinea pigs are surrendered sooner than later. Where guinea pigs are purchased from a reputable rescue/source one would hope that the commitment needed is made very clear to potential adopters.
Running the Rescue we see our fair share of piggies dumped because the kids have lost interest but it is not often that they are in conditions quite like this two boys were in.
February 24, 2010
Posted in: Rescue No Comments
Finding Friends…
After the successful collaboration of Gorgeous Guineas and Planet Guinea last year the Planet Gorgeous Bitesize newsletter has evolved, bringing monthly hints and tips that are current and topical.
Finding Friends…
Guinea pigs should be allowed to find their friends as opposed to being “bonded” with them or having no say in the matter. Being bonded implies “being stuck” and no pig should “be stuck” with any pig that is not of their own choosing.
- What is the best mix of guinea pigs?
The best mix of guinea pigs is one that gets on! These may be same gender or different gender (castrated boar and sow), or young and old, or same age; equally all these mixes might not get on.
- Is there more chance of a baby boar and an adult boar getting along than two adult boars?
Possibly, at first. What should always be taken into account with this pairing is that the ‘baby’ still has a lot of maturing to do and fighting may break out at a later date. Boars are often sold in pairs as youngsters at pet shops, only to end up fighting 6 months or so later. Where this hasn’t been prepared for or is unexpected the boar(s) will often end up in rescue. In 2003 every baby and adult boar pairing at Reading Guinea Pig Rescue was eventually separated because of fighting, their new owners were aware that this was a possibility though and were able to “cope”. Reputable sources will make sure that new owners know that this is a possibility and advise accordingly.
- Is it possible for a single adult boar to be matched with another single adult boar?
Yes, it may be more difficult than matching sows because there are often more sows than boars to choose from but depending on your boar’s personality it is possible to find a compatible boar. Boars will often display instant dislike as opposed to low level bullying that can be seen in sows. Similarly they can show instant approval of a suited boar. Never judge a boar (or a sow) on past relationships; each one will bring something new to the friendship making each partnership unique. Always be prepared to separate boars where bullying or fighting develops.
- Will any combination of a castrated boar and a group of sows ‘get along’?
Not necessarily, either party may reject the other; often it is the sow that rejects the boar, but boars rejecting sows is not unheard of. With any mix the most balanced and compatible one is what you are aiming for. A balanced group of a castrated boar and sows are able to accept newcomers, to a certain degree, providing they are having their own needs met. Where there is ‘conflict’ it is often the sow that is ‘bottom of the pile’ that is ‘fighting’ to keep her place in the hierarchy. The top sow is usually confident of her role and becomes more of a leader to the newbie than a defender of her own place in the herd, however if the newbie is determined that her rightful place is at the top of the herd then there will be trouble until the positioning of the group is established.
- What do I look for in a friend for my guinea pig?
Let your guinea pig choose their own friend. All guinea pigs should be free from issues and ready to choose a friend. Little Miss Lucky was a good example of this. After being moved around to 6 different homes in two weeks Miss Lucky was not ready to find herself a friend, yet she was being moved from home to home because she “wouldn’t live with other guinea pigs”. After being allowed some time to de stress and adjust she lived with a herd and learnt how to be a guinea pig again… Because she had a problem with living with one guinea pig she gained a label and the vicious circle of being moved to different homes began.
Any potential friends should be free from skin issues and other health problems unless ongoing such as Fatty Eye or Impaction for example. For more, see: Reputable Sources, on Guinea Pig Welfare.
- When it all goes wrong…
Happy and healthy guinea pigs can have issues too, maybe a ‘same gender’ pair has turned out to be different genders and there are pups on the way. Providing the ‘mistake’ is handled correctly that’s all it will be, one mistake. But often things get out of hand it’s the rescues that end up picking up the pieces when the pups aren’t separated at the correct age. Weaning age in the wild is said to be 2 weeks, sexual maturity for males can be reached at any time from 3-5 weeks, and females from 4 to 6 weeks. However, it is worth noting that a single pup is perhaps more likely to mature quicker than if he had siblings with which to compete. He automatically fulfils his ‘optimum size’ with ease because of the lack of competition, it’s likely that he will be maturing quicker too and extra care should be taken that he is removed at 3 weeks. These are often the hardest ones to remove as well; the single pig becomes attached to his Mum and almost needy and precious. Worse still, if there is no boar for him to be put with he will often “cry” to be put back with Mum. In order to prevent more accidental pregnancies though it is vital that he is removed.
- How do I introduce new guinea pigs?
Ensure both guinea pigs are in a place where they are able to be introduced, i.e. neither has any other issues going on that affects their well being. Neither guinea pig should be carrying labels such as “needs a submissive type to be her friend”, or “is a dominant sow”; guinea pigs respond and react to every guinea pig as an individual, Humans should also treat their guinea pigs as individuals.
The healthy and happy individuals should be put in a “neutral run” with a little hay. Whilst lots of will distract the guinea pigs the outcome needed is to see if they get on not if they like hay. Putting into words what should happen next is not possible, some “language” will happen, maybe good, maybe bad; gestures will be made, bottom sniffing, standing for a boar (in the case of a sow), face to face challenges (not a good start and likely coupled with teeth chattering); in the case of two boars meeting for the first time behaviour might be a “face off” which is likely to mean that the pairing isn’t going to work, or some chasing; in the case of chasing where there is no aggression wait until things settle (maybe hours) and monitor from there. Often this is establishing themselves and leads to friendship, however the pair need to be monitored in case of bullying occurring.
Finding a friend for your guinea pig can be complex if you are not confident about what you are doing, go to a reputable source that is able to manage the friend finding for you. Your guinea pig(s) will sense the stress you are feeling and this will be mirrored in their behaviour. Bachs Rescue Remedy is useful for the first few days or so when a new friend arrives and is good for Humans too.
Points to remember:
- Let your guinea pig(s) do the choosing, colour is superficial, character is pure.
- Both/all guinea pigs need to be free from other issues in order to make a choice about their new friend.
- Remove all previous labels the guinea pigs may have had, these are past issues, it is time to move forward (if not then the guinea pigs are not ready for rehoming).
- Let your guinea pig be a guinea pig and do piggy things. Whilst they have emotions they are not human emotions that are attached to thought nor do they act with ulterior motives. Humanising guinea pigs can bring about a different set of problems.
- Where a guinea pig has been bereaved it is often easier for them to move forward when they have seen the dead body of their friend, acknowledged it and started to move on already.
- Please remember to adopt guineas wherever possible. Pet shops only supply Mini-Pigs that are usually 6-8 weeks old, sometimes incorrectly sexed and not always appropriate to go with older guineas or for children. See Guinea Pig Rehome for just some of those waiting for homes or Guinea Pig Welfare for a list of links to rescue websites.
These are just guidelines for finding your guinea pig(s) new friend (s), each situation is different and common ground is rare! The bottom line is character and personality are what is matched, not colour and not scent. Colour is meaningless, scent lets a guinea pig know who’s around, it doesn’t tell them whether they get on…
None of the advice contained in this newsletter is a substitute for good veterinary advice or treatment.
February 14, 2010
Posted in: Behaviour, Planet Gorgeous No Comments