After Snow…
The majority of the country has been under snow at some time this month making the thaw a welcome change, seeing green grass again has been a wonderful sight almost! Unfortunately the ground is still much too damp to put guinea pigs outside on. Even if the sun dries the grass the ground below is very cold and damp. There has not been enough sun to warm it up yet, let alone dry it out. Putting guinea pigs outside is risking pneumonia, and that includes putting them out and drying them off when they come in: a chill cannot be ‘dried off’.
Rex Bicolour
January 31, 2010
Posted in: Planet Guinea, Seasonal care 
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Planet Gorgeous Bitesize…
We hope you enjoy our first on skin care:
1. I have read on the internet about using Nizoral to treat my guinea pig’s fungal skin, is it OK to use products for humans on guinea pigs? I know they were tested on guinea pigs but they were tested for use on humans surely?
Human products are designed for humans, not for the specific needs of guineas with skin problems. Human anti-dandruff shampoos are often recommended on forums, but people don’t seem to realise that they often contain harsh detergents such as SLS / SLES as well as Parabens (preservatives that have had some bad press). Read more about what’s in Nizoral here: http://community.intellicontact.com/p/gorgeous_guineas/newsletters/gorgeous_guineas/posts/5181352946465522226
The Gorgeous Guineas range of products has been designed specifically for the types of skin problems that guineas have. We don’t use harsh detergents such as SLS / SLES in our shampoos, nor do we use Parabens. We always buy good quality ingredients and use the minimum number to get the job done – every ingredient in every product has a purpose. Take a look at the ingredients list on the back of a bottle of GG shampoo vs. human shampoo….many human products have up to 40 ingredients!
2. My boar has scabby lips and I need something NOW to put on them, they look so painful. I have the Green Cream that I used on a cut lip once, can I use that?
Galen’s Garden Green Cream is the best product for scabby lips. Why? Sores like this can be fungal or bacterial in origin and the Green Cream can help both types. You DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE SCABS before applying the cream. Some people advise this, but it is totally unnecessary and very painful for the guinea. The Cream will soften the scabs and they will come off in their own time. The easiest way to apply the Cream to small areas around the mouth it is with a cotton bud.
3. A rescue sow has sore nipples from feeding a very large litter that was also the result of post partum mating; should I buy the Human equivalent or is there something I can get for guinea pigs that won’t harm the pups?
Sore nipples can be helped with either Super Souffle Cream or Perfect Paws Ointment. Both contain Calendula Oil which is one of our “must-have” ingredients to help all sorts of skin problems. Human products often contain Mineral Oil (such as Paraffin / Petrolatum) which can sit on the skin and block pores. This is because their molecules are bigger than those of vegetable oils which can be absorbed by the skin to help the healing process.
4. Are all Neem shampoos the same?
No - if you go to a health food shop where most of them are sold, you will find all sorts of different ingredients included in each brand (including SLS and SLES as mentioned above, along with Parabens). Neem also comes in several different varieties such as oil, leaves, bark and tincture. Each one has a variety of uses and from reading the ingredients, it is unlikely that you will find out which part of the Neem tree has been used. Gorgeous Guineasâ products containing Neem are made with the most appropriate form for each different type of product and no, we’re not giving our secrets away!
5. I normally order my products online but this problem is looking like it needs attention now, what do I do?
First port of call would be your Vet to get a diagnosis and treatment. You can also email us for advice – depending on what the problem is we can sometimes advise you to buy products that are available from your local chemist / supermarket (Aloe Vera Gel for example). This is where it is always useful to have a small stock of products to hand and why we offer Trial Sizes of most of our products. “Must have” products include a CocoNeem Melt, Manuka & Neem Shampoo, Lice ‘n’ Easy Shampoo, Galen’s Garden Green Cream and Aloe Vera Gel.
6. How old should my guinea pig be before I start to bath them?
Unless your guinea has a skin problem they should not need bathing until they are at least 3-4 months old.
7. What’s the difference between an ointment and a lotion and when would I use them?
A lotion is water-based and contains:
a small amount of oil (such as Calendula which is great for sore, itchy, inflamed skin conditions, also for dry / cracked nipples) an emulsifier (to enable the oil and water to mix) a preservative – every product containing water needs to be preserved to prevent the growth of micro-organisms such as fungi and bacteria other active ingredients such as essential oils and herbal oils Lotions are easily absorbed into the skin and can be used where the surface of the skin has been damaged (eg scabs, fungal infection, irritated skin). They help the skin to stay moisturised and heal from the inside out.
An ointment usually consists of herbal oils (such as Calendula) in a wax-base and contains no water , so does not need a preservative. It forms a protective layer over the skin as well as helping it to heal and is particularly useful for foot problems, fungal ears and crusty nipples. Most ointments are made using Beeswax, but ours are made using a vegetable wax so are suitable for Vegans as well as Vegetarians. Ointments should never be used on open wounds as these need to be kept moist in order to heal properly. Check out this article for our 3 Steps To Natural Wound Management for additional information:
http://gorgeousguineas.com/documents/3%20Steps%20To%20Natural%20Wound%20Management.pdf
8. We have an extremely fungal pig that has just come into rescue who needs treating now. Can you recommend the products that will be most effective and any other hints and tips until his veterinary appointment? We have some Rimadyl prescribed to us for times like this to give before we even attempt to relieve the problem.
If there are large, crusty areas the first thing to do is to soften them before attempting to do anything else. Super SoufflĂŠ Cream is very effective for this purpose and when the crusts are softened, a CocoNeem Melt followed by Manuka & Neem Shampoo will help the guinea feel more comfortable.  After 2 or 3 rounds of Melt / Shampoo each a week apart, you should see a big improvement in the condition of the skin. Lavender & Myrrh Lotion can also be helpful where there is scabby skin that needs to be kept moisturised so that it can heal properly. See Mr Meltâs story: http://thepigissue.wordpress.com/2008/01/02/mr-melts-story/
9. I read on the internet that I can buy Ivermectin to treat parasitic conditions and also to prevent them but when I looked there are lots of different strengths etc! Will any one do?
No! If you think your guinea has Mites, please go to a guinea-competent Vet for a diagnosis (http://www.guineapigwelfare.org.uk/guinea-pig-care/health/questions-to-ask-your-vet/). Most Vets now use Xeno 50 or Xeno 450 which is Ivermectin in a spot-on form that is applied to the skin, rather than painful injections. Please DO NOT be tempted to buy any spot-on products from your local pet shop or supermarket. These usually either contain Permethrin (which can be harmful to guineas) or contain too little Ivermectin to do the job properly. Only the affected guinea needs treating as Mange Mites live under the skin and usually start multiplying and cause intense itching when there is some sort of underlying stress (eg new home, poor nutrition, pregnant sows, sows that have recently given birth, babies, boars fighting, golden oldies). Two doses of Ivermectin are required, 10-14 days apart.
10. I’ve given Ivermectin on day one and day ten to my guineas and the condition is starting to clear but they are still scratching, do I need to bath them?
Ivermectin given in the correct dose is a very effective treatment and usually the scratching subsides within 24 hours of application as the Mites die off. Occasionally if there has been a bad infestation of Mites a guinea may need a 3rd dose of Ivermectin. Usually if it is a bad case, your Vet will inject the Ivermectin rather than using Xeno 50 or 450. Guineas often get parasitic and fungal problems at the same time, so if your guinea is still scratching it could be as a result of a fungal problem or from irritation caused by scurfy skin. If the is the case, a CocoNeem Melt followed by Manuka & Neem Shampoo will help to remove any dead skin and leave the guinea more comfortable.
January 24, 2010
Posted in: Planet Gorgeous No Comments
Whatâs In A Rescue? (Thistle Cavies Newsletter)
Thistle Cavies shared their experiences of so called ârescuesâ in their January 2010 newsletter. All too often breeders are referred to as âuncaringâ and âbad sourcesâ to get guinea pigs from, and there are cases where this is true, what is rarely commented upon is that exactly the same can be said of some ârescuesâ, which is, of course, even more dangerous because of the trust that people have in an outfit that professes to be âhelpingâ guinea pigs. See the Reputable Sources page for a guide to finding a guinea pig.
âWe recieve many emails about piggies adopted from other Rescues around the whole of the UK. Some are about piggies that turn out to be sick others are about conditions at a Rescue.We have had mails from people concerned that a Rescue would rehome Rabbits and Guinea Pigs together. Rescues that have boars put to sleep because they were impacted.Rescues that are also breeding. Rescues that are rehoming piggies to live outside in the winter and on sawdust.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
At Thistle we are very fussy as to where our piggies are rehomed to, everyone has to comply with our standards. We refuse many people piggies for one reason or another. It is our belief that piggies that come into Rescue should only go to top class homes. Many of these piggies have had a really tough time and the last thing they need is another mediocre home. To address a few of the points in the above paragraph:
Piggies rehomed with Rabbits is just not on, they are separate species and Rabbits can do an awful lot of damage to a piggy and vica versa. Their needs are totally different.No self respecting Rescue would allow this.
To have a boar pts for being impacted is beyond words. This is part and parcel of Rescue work, not every piggy is in perfect health, some cannot be rehomed.Impaction is very easily and speedily dealt with taking only a few seconds a couple or so times a day depending on the piggy, some only need clearing out once or twice a week. I am totally disgusted that any Rescue would do this also that a vet would allow it.
To rehome a piggy from a heated environment to live in a hutch in the garden on sawdust (in winter), again words fail me on this. The piggy has no time to acclimatise itself to the colder conditions. Many have died and some have been âluckyâ and ended up with frostbite to their ears and other extremeties.Absolutely no decent Rescue would even consider sawdust/woodshavings as bedding. They have a duty to know the harm it causes.This product is used  for their own convenience and cost, nothing to do with the welfare of the piggies.
Breeding to sell to the public whilst being a Rescue is to shoot yourself in the footâŚâŚyou may as well keep the pups and just fill up your cages, save other Rescues takeing them in at a later date!!!!!
The five freedoms should be known to everyone in animal welfare.
There will always be piggies coming in that cannot be rehomed for one reason or another and that will need special care for the rest of their lives. This can be expensive and time consuming and if you cannot give that time, effort and money then you should not be setting yourself up as a Rescue.
In summary, these types of Rescues do little good but do the Guinea Pig a great disservice, putting their care back by decades and ruining all the effort and work put in by the proper Rescues to promote good husbandry for these little mammals.
We can honestly say that all our piggies go to very good homes, yes this can mean piggies sometimes have to stay with us for long periods but rather this than a less than suitable home. We have many pensioner piggies and ill piggies that need daily meds, impactions cleared daily, would we dream of have any pts because of this? Never, we would only ever euthanise a piggy if he/she was suffering in some way and it was in the best interest of the piggy to have this done.
January 17, 2010
Posted in: Rescue No Comments
Castration Questions…
Having a boar castrated (neutered) must be a big commitment and understanding of what exactly is involved. Castrating a boar will not change his behaviour, just his ability to reproduce. All operations are life threatening and the positive and negative must be weighed up before the decision is made:
- Are you prepared to give a home to 2 boars? There is a possibility that they could fall out and living arrangements (including new friends) will need to be considered. Although adult boars do fall out it is often preferable to adopt a well matched pair of adults that have been together for at least 6 months than it is to take on a baby boar and an adult. Whilst everything depends on the character of both the outcome of the ‘baby boar’s’ adolescence is unknown and unpredictable.
- Having decided that castration is the only option it is important to source a knowledgable veterinary surgeon. Find a rescue that sees lots of guinea pigs or ask a local guinea pig breeder which one they use and what they have used the vet for. It is the name of the surgeon that is important, as opposed to the name of the practice. Still ask the vet your own questions.
- Oxbow Critical Care should be available both at the surgery and for post op nursing at home- stock up before it’s needed. Ensure veterinary nurses are aware of how to syringe feed.
- Post op guinea pigs need a veterinary bedding to lay on. Buy a purpose made product for optimum performance.
- Prepare before op and after op boxes/tubs of food, the after op tub should contain tempting, favourite foods. Give instructions detailing when and why these foods are to be given, mark the tubs for ease of use for the nurses!
Questions to ask:
- How many guinea pig castrates have you done successfully? What success rate do you expect?
The more recent and successful castrates the better of course, but gaining an insight into the expectations of doing a castration is useful too. Castrates are one of the easiest and less intrusive operations to perform, it is not unreasonable to expect a vet to expect a near 100% success rate whilst allowing for the minority of guineapigs with an undetectable (on pre op examination) and underlying problem; usually respiratory.
2. What anaesthetic do you use?
All anaesthetics should be gas ones, the safest ones are: Isoflurane and Servoflurane. Gas is preferable because the body can be flooded with Oxygen when the gas is turned off and the guinea pig will recover quicker. Recovery should be within the half hour after the operation and nurses should know that syringe feeding is very necessary to keep the intestines moving if the guinea pig doesn’t start to eat. Guinea pigs should be fed within the hour after the operation.
3. Do you give a Pre Op painkiller?
Rimadyl should be given pre op so that the boar is not in pain when he ‘comes round’ form the anaesthetic. Rimadyl will also reduce any swelling. Rimadyl may be given post op.
4. What do you use to stitch up the wound?
Vicryl is the best choice for stitching up guinea pigs, and preferably internal stiching with Skin Glue holding together the outside wound so that the stitches can’t be pulled out. Catgut should NEVER be used, some guinea pigs are allergic to it and this causes reactions and problems at a time when the guinea pig is probably vulnerable as well.
5. What method of castration do you ‘use’?
There are many variations on castrating boars (i.e. where incisions are made etc) but the preferred method is the closed method.
6. How long before my boar can live with a sow?
There are many variations on this answer. One month after the operation it is medically impossible for a boar to impregnate a sow. The recommended time is two weeks, any sooner and wounds (including internal) may not have sufficiently healed as well as the risk of pregnancy of course. Reading Guinea Pig Rescue have, at the time of writing,had over 60 boars castrated, all were put in with sows 2 weeks after castration and there have been no injuries to the boars or pregnancies.
No operation can be guaranteed as straight forward but providing your boar is suitably matched to his sowfriend by a reputable source happiness can be guaranteed. Given that companionship is a basic need for a guinea pig surely it should be taken as seriously as diet and other ‘basic needs’?
Further reading: Cakey’s Catgut Catastrophe.
January 16, 2010
Posted in: Planet Guinea No Comments
Bedding Sources
Beddings all have their pros and cons, providing they are not harmful to the guinea pigs and allow them to forage (a natural behaviour), it is, for the most part, down to the individual to choose which bedding suits them best. The local farm/farm shop is the best place to get bedding from. Not only will this support local farmers and save your Carbon footprint, when extreme weather conditions make courier delivery impossible there is a local source available. Asking pet shops/farms if they can buy products in and purchasing from them regularly is a good way of making sure they will be in stock when you need them.
Beddings that contain essential oils are very dangerous to guinea pigs and can cause burn like marks to the skin.
- Aubiose: Aubiose is an organically cultivated Hemp bedding for equines. Extra bedding is required for sleeping on as it Aubiose is not a âcosyâ bedding.
Website: http://www.aubiose.co.uk/
- Dengie Medibed: Dust extracted, chopped wheat straw with anti eating agents. A cosy bedding that could be used on top of Aubiose.
Website: http://www.dengie.com/pages/products/additional-products/medi-bed.php
- Flax: A natural, dust free and absorbent litter. Hay or other soft bedding is needed under houses/bedding compartments.
Website: http://www.hippofan.com/paarden/content.asp?Pag=4&pnav=;2;&taal=en
See also: http://www.equisorb.co.uk/
http://www.equisupplies.co.uk/products/horse-bedding/Jo-Pack-Flax.aspx
- Hay and newspaper: A high maintenance bedding but the one that guinea pigs would probably choose given the option! Great for burrowing in, sleeping on and eating. Buy a good meadow hay from your local farm. Hay bought by the bale (equine) is the economic way to buy.
- Veterinary bedding: Veterinary bedding and fleece does not cater for guinea pigâs natural behaviour of tunneling and foraging. Whilst this type of bedding is useful for post op guinea pigs and senior or ones with mobility issues it should only be used in part of the hutch/cage/pen (except for post op guinea pigs who need to be bedded totally on a veterinary bedding). Veterinary bedding (Happy Soles) is sold by Planet Guinea.
- Shavings/sawdust: Both are very absorbent which also means they absorb the natural oils from a guinea pigâs skin leaving it more prione to skin problems. Dust and natural oils can also lead to respiratory problems. When there are other choices of bedding why risk using Shavings?
Using a recommended bedding as well as shampooing 4-6 weekly can help to minimise skin problems. However, it is important to use Gorgeous Guineasâ shampoos as they are the only shampoo designed for guinea pigs. Shampooing more often and with a shampoo that isnât designed for guinea pigs will dry the skin.
January 12, 2010
Posted in: Bedding No Comments
Cold Weather Advice…
Once again much of the country is under a thick layer of snow or experiencing extremely low temperatures. Guinea pigs need extra care at these times in particular:
- Insulation (lots of extra bedding etc) is only useful where the environment is already at an ideal temperature. Insulation will only keep guinea pigs as warm as their current temperature, it will not warm them up!
- Where water bottles are freezing the temperature has obviously reached freezing point and the environment is too cold! Domesticated guinea pigs cannot seek out shelter like their wild ancestors would.
- It is important that the environment around the cage/hutch/pen is at least 10 degrees C or 50 degrees F minimum, if there is condensation on the windows it needs to be warmer, electricity provides the driest form of heat or invest in a dehumidifier to remove water from the air. Small holes can be drilled in the shed in places where they will promote air circulation and exchange but won’t cause draughts for the guinea pigs. A dry environment is the one you are trying to achieve, a warmer one is good too.
- Guinea pigs need a constant temperature, even those that live in the house can be the victims of a change in temperature when the heating goes off. Keep the room they are in at a constant temperature by using an oil filled electric radiator to heat the environment when the heating goes off. A thermometer is obviously of great use here too.
- Guinea pigs that are ill will be more vulnerable as will the older ones. The body will shut down gradually if it gets too cold, if the guinea pig is ill or old it is likely to happen faster leaving an even smaller window of opportunity for catching and treating any illness.
- Symptoms of Hypothermia (when the body drops to less than 35 degrees C/95 degrees F (mild) ), maybe that breathing becomes quick and shallow, hair may stand on end (in an effort to insulate the body), and they may appear lethargic and be unwilling to eat. Not all symptoms may present.
- If you find your guinea pig suffering from cold related issues bring them inside to a warmer environment but do not try to warm them up too quickly. Place them on dry bedding (a veterinary fleece bedding if possible) and insulate them by putting a fleece/blanket/ towel over their body to insulate any body heat. A Snugglesafe heatpad that has been covered (with a tea towel or similar) can be used as a source of heat but the guinea pig must be ‘turned over’/moved every 20 minutes if they are not moving themselves or other issues can occur.
‘Phone your vet for further advice based on how the guinea pig has responded to the immediate treatment you have given. Like heatstroke the worst thing you can do in these cases is nothing. Taking the guinea pig’s temperature is not overly important (and can be a waste of time) in these cases, responding to symptoms is.
Get to know what is ‘normal’ for your guinea pig’s appearance so recognising signs of illness are easy.
January 6, 2010
Posted in: Seasonal care No Comments
Time to diet or just eat sensibly?
Guinea pigs are like chocolate, you keep wanting more; so is it time to start eating sensibly? Chocolate guineas are the hardest colour to rehome at Reading Guinea Pig Rescue.
January 4, 2010
Posted in: Planet Guinea No Comments
Merry Christmas
Merry Christmas everyone 
December 24, 2009
Posted in: Planet Guinea No Comments